Recipes

Yes, Here’s a Recipe

/ Amanda N. Young / Leave a comment

I haven’t added much content here in quite a while. You would think, that with all of the extra time I have stuck at home, that this would not be the case. I guess I’ve been distracted by all of my own small elements of crazy. I’ve also been super confused about what kind of content I want to create and where and what kind of things I should be making and why. How to streamline it… Ugh. It’s all just led to a lot of nothing. Which is more useless than making SOMETHING and figuring it out later. So here’s that.

I’ve been making this recipe frequently during the stay in place. It’s been a brownie recipe that I’ve tweaked a bit over time. And it’s one of my favorites. Partly because it’s super easy to put together, and partly because it’s just the kind of rich textural goodness that’s comforting and addictive.

It starts with a very simple Cocoa Brownie Recipe that my friend Christina and I found years ago. We’d been cooking dinner with friends all evening, (probably watching a Firefly marathon) and realized we wanted dessert! That wouldn’t take all night like the disaster of a cheesecake from the week before. Whoops. A handful of years ago, I remembered how quick and satisfying this recipe was and set out to make it mine. Here’s where I am at with it today:

Dark Chocolate Cardamom Brownies

283g Unsalted Butter

495g Sugar

180g Cocoa Powder

6g     Salt

1 tsp Vanilla Extract

4ea  Cold Large Eggs

120g All Purpose Flour

1 ⅓ cup inclusions (Dark Chocolate Chips/chunks and or Almonds)

1/2 tsp Cardamom 

AN   Maldon Salt

AN   Cocoa Nibs

AN   Aleppo Pepper (optional)

Pre grease a 9”x13”/ 33 x 23 x 5 cm baking pan and set oven to 350 F/ 175 C. 

In a large heatproof bowl, begin to melt butter over a double boiler.  Add cocoa powder, sugar, and cardamom and continue to stir until melted and fully incorporated. Mixture will be at least warm or hot to the touch.  Remove from heat.  If hot, wait a few minutes. Then emulsify in cold eggs one by one.  Add vanilla extract.  Fold in flour and inclusions.

Pour mixture into baking pan, lightly even out top. Sprinkle Maldon Salt, Cocoa Nibs, and Aleppo if desired, evenly over the top of the brownie.   Bake for 25 minutes initially and check.   Top should lose some of it’s glossy color, crack and rise slightly.

Notes: Cardamom is a strong flavor.  In this brownie, it can be used as a very subtle lift or it can be increased so that the cardamom is more central.   It’s great both ways.  The ½ tsp is based on using freshly ground cardamom seeds for a distinct flavor.  If using pre-ground cardamom, I would suggest a full teaspoon.  Can also sub aleppo pepper in place of the cardamom for a different take.  In this case, add 1 tsp Aleppo to melting butter and also finish the brownies with an additional sprinkling of the pepper. 

This is a pretty dense, fudgy brownie.  Softness and moisture will also depend on how long it is baked.  I tend to bake it a touch on the underdone side for something really gooey and decadent.

The Induction of “Why” into my Recipe Writing.

/ Amanda N. Young / Leave a comment

I didn’t become the cook that I am today over night.  A lot of experiences have helped to shape where I am today.  I learned as much, if not more, from the bad as the good.

The first years of cooking for me consisted mostly of absorbing recipes and techniques as fast as possible.  I went from zero kitchen experience to a master of my domain. I pushed myself to learn everything I could and then wanted more.  In that time, it was about the basics.  A lot of how to do something or when to do something.  In the second kitchen I entered, it was more of the same, but intensely.  An even higher pressure Michelin driven environment that taught me more precise and complicated techniques.  These first handful of years created a baseline of knowledge.  I worked for stable companies that had their systems down and their ideas in place.  I didn’t create my own things.  I created within the parameters required of the restaurant’s standards. It wasn’t until I took my first job leading a pastry program solo that I started to develop recipes that were mine.   I had to create a set of questions for myself that would help form a recipe.

Now, for me, asking myself these questions while I work on a dish is an exercise. I’ve learned that it helps my process.  And not everyone will work this way.  When I started, those questions looked like the following:

What’s in season? What do I like?  What do I know how to do well? What do I want to learn how to do? What would I like to learn how to do better?  How do I make it look good? Taste good?

As I worked, and developed my own style, more questions arose:

How do I make the dish balanced? Do I have the tools I need to make this possible? If I don’t, what tools can I use to make it possible? Or, should I rethink the execution? For example, if I wanted to make lemon meringue pie, but pie tins weren’t around- could I make a lemon meringue parfait in a jar and have it be just as delicious?  What savory or unexpected element could I add to make this dish special? So it’s not just a lemon meringue pie like all of the others.  Even in pastry, I thought: There should be balance. Sweet, salt, bitter, umami, etc. Should there be variations in texture? How does this work in terms of service? Can it be executed with this precision by others, multiple times a night? Can we take something humble and make it something spectacular? Does it have to be sweet to be dessert?

Do you notice, that all of these questions are “how’s” and “what’s”?

Most of these questions boil down to two:

1. What do you want to make?

2. How are you going to make it?  

In recent years, I have found that “why” has snuck in more and more often to my recipe process.

Why is x ingredient important? Why is it important that it be : (complicated/different or simple/approachable etc)? Are all of the steps that we put into it something that makes enough of an impact to be valued against the cost of making it?  Who is going to experience that value? Is it the chef, the line cook, the guest? Is there going to be a lot of waste in this dish? Why? Is there something we can plan to do with the waste so it is no longer wasteful?

I ask myself questions about the balance of artistry vs. labor.  What kind of an impact that labor has on the staff.  Does this labor encourage learning and excitement, or frustration and exhaustion?  Or both? And is that okay?  Who does the artistry benefit?

3. Why are we making this? 

I like to think that as I grow as a cook, I am also growing as a leader. Thinking beyond myself and beyond creating a dish in a vacuum.   The questions that I used to ask haven’t gone away. They have developed, become more precise and refined to the kind of food I want to focus on.  There is knowledge and experience that has shaped what I ask and how I answer.   There are new questions that ask for more thoughtful answers.  To be honest- sometimes it is still important for me to take time to brainstorm a dish in a vacuum, without all of the “whys” being at the forefront of my mind. My creativity is a skill, like a muscle that must be used and challenged in order to stay strong.  I like to think that asking myself “Why” can only add to the challenge and to the balance of the kind of cook that I want to be.

Finally, I want to mention the question I constantly ask about a dish before I put it in front of a guest : Is it delicious? It seems pretty obvious, but just take a step back from all of the thinking and planning and sit down at a table like a real person and eat the dish. Not just a bite. Is it delicious? Is it enjoyable? Would you want to eat it again?

I hope that I can answer some of your questions.  I hope that by sharing my experiences, that I can help to enrich yours. I hope your recipe brainstorming time is fruitful, challenging, and creates joy.

Much love,

Amanda

Spiced (á la Mexican) Hot Chocolate Pops

/ Amanda N. Young / 3 Comments

I had a list. A list of items I was coming up to Eid (Norfjoreid, Norway) to make that I thought was fairly ambitious.  Over the last few months when Leon and I messaged back and forth the list grew.  Still, I thought that I could make it work.  Well, I hoped. It has grown, this list, even more since I got here.  We’ve made a few things I wasn’t expecting to get to at all, and left a few things that I was excited about behind.  I’ve loved the process, and I wish I had more time, more of me to make more of these fun things.  It’s in this last week that we’re stuck trying to play catch up to a demand we weren’t expecting that I’m having to pare back down to what feel like the essentials. Or the “best sellers we’ve had so far”.    Slowing down a bit on new things.  Ramping up on everything we (and that we is mostly me) make, getting ready for Christmas shoppers.

The Hot Cocoa Pops that Chef Leon asked me to make have been the sneaky guys on the shelf, getting sold when I least expect.  Almond brittle far outsells them, but I like them just the same. I intend to make time to keep some on the shelves of Minibakeriet for stocking stuffers. They are pretty tasty.  Also very simple to make.   And I promised I would post a recipe, so that my mom and my cousins (and anyone who wanted, of course) could make them at home.

I want to mention that I have adjusted a recipe I found from The Giver’s Log to suit my personal tastes and the bakery’s needs.  I have always loved chocolate that is spicy and rich, and the darker the better. If it was me, I would double the amount of chocolate on one pop, or use two for one 8oz glass of milk, top it off with more spices- stir it with a cinnamon stick even.  A good thick sipping chocolate.  But I wasn’t just making this for me. So we’ll go with the version I made for the bakery.  Something that appeals to even the kiddos, and still evokes in me memories of the Ibarra chocolate I love and have no chance of finding here in Norway. (Mom, mail me Ibarra!)

Spiced Hot Chocolate Pops

Ingredients:

  • 455 g  72% Valrhona Araguani (Dark Chocolate)
  • 40g   Valrhona Cocoa Rouge (Cocoa Powder)
  • 110g  Powdered Sugar (Confectioners Sugar)
  • 8g      Cinnamon
  • 1/8t   Cayenne

You will also need: Wooden spoons or popsicle sticks, a silicon mold- a silicon Ice cube tray will work great, and a piping bag.

Method for pops:

  1. Make sure silicon mold is as clean and dry as possible.  I recommend washing it and popping it in the oven for a few minutes.  It won’t melt, and should cool down enough to use once the chocolate mixture is ready.
  2. Sift together the Cocoa Powder, Powdered Sugar, Cinnamon, and Cayenne.
  3. Melt the dark chocolate in a heat proof bowl, either stirring carefully over a pot of simmering water or in a microwave in small increments of 30-60 seconds.
  4. Mix the sifted ingredients into the melted chocolate thoroughly.
  5. Pour mixture into piping bag and pipe into prepared molds.
  6. Once the chocolate starts to set, place wooden spoons in each mold.
  7. Do not refrigerate. Let harden in a cool, dry place.  Package as desired.

A note on Chocolate: In the bakery I use Valrhona or Callebaut.   High quality chocolate is best, not “melting chips” or chocolate with a lot of added oil. Valrhona’s 72% is one of my favorites.  It may also be harder to get, and a little pricey.  Guittard, Scharffenberger, Cacao Barry are all good options. Still, my best recommendation is to use something that you like.  And if you’re saving a penny or two: the Trader Joe’s Dark chocolate will work just fine.

A note on Spices:  The freshest spices will have the best flavors.  This is especially true of ground spices.  The ideal is to use a smaller amount of fresh spices, rather than worry about the overall mixture becoming gritty. Cinnamon, cayenne or whatever chile mix that might be available are all good options, adjust to fit personal tastes.

To Make Hot Chocolate:

Heat 1 cup/8oz/2.4 dL of Whole Milk just to a simmer. (I really love using a dash of Heavy Cream with my milk).  Stir in chocolate pop until melted. Keep spoon around to make sure you get all of that chocolate goodness from the bottom of cup.

Variations:

For Peppermint Chocolate: Omit Cinnamon and Cayenne, finish melted chocolate with a 2-3 small drops of Peppermint Oil before adding in dry ingredients.   Coat finished pops with powdered sugar OR sprinkle crushed peppermint candy on top of pops before they set.

For Marshmallow Chocolate: Finish pops with mini mallows before set. Make your own if you can. Fresh Marshmallows are fantastic.

For (ALL OF THE POSSIBILITIES): Add what you like.  Keep in mind that a few drops of essential oils, extracts, liquor should be okay. BUT too much liquid makes the chocolate seize and discolor. This is a best as a dry ingredient recipe. Add other flavors in as toppings for best results.

 

A note to my cousins and my mom and anyone who wants to make these: I’m happy to answer questions. I hope you make them with your monkeys and take photos. And send me the photos.  And drink lots of Ibarra for me.

 

Love,

Amanda

pickled veg

/ Amanda N. Young / Leave a comment

I recently wrote a post about the expansion of a pantry.  There is an amazing little bit of cleverness and strategy that can be found in this endeavor.  As a cook it often amazes me how much of my work life influences my choices at home.   The life of a chef doesn’t really just stop at the kitchen door.  I’ve lately found that I’ve been leaning too hard on the fantastic variety of food options that New York City has to offer. Which can be both wonderful and a little hard on my wallet.  And a little tiring.  It’s easy to forget the simple pleasure of cooking at home. When I build myself a sandwich I am often struck with the realization that I truly enjoy the process, as well as the results.

When I do manage to pull out the cutting board and a few slices of bread at home I love having a variety of vegetables to use.  Unfortunately I don’t do this often enough or for enough people to justify keeping a lot of fresh ones that will spoil due to my neglect.  To balance this, I’ve started keeping pickled vegetables on hand in my pantry or fridge. Most often I cook for myself, and the vegetables I would buy for healthier meals were going bad before I could use them all. This way I can keep a larger variety of veggies and flavors on hand without waste. Right now there are pickled jalapeños and pickled red onions in ball jars in my fridge. This weekend I plan to add rainbow carrots and beets, maybe radishes and whatever still looks good at the green market. My coworker recently made some pretty amazing pickled ginger at work. He added mustard seeds, black peppercorn, a little salt, and chili flakes to the mix. Were keeping a pretty awesome variety of vegetables from the summer around using this method.
There are a lot of great pickling recipes out there. My favorite is equal parts champagne vinegar, water and sugar.
For example:
1 cup Water
1 cup Champagne Vinegar (or any vinegar you prefer)
1 cup sugar

You can also add whatever spices you might like, and reduce the amount of sugar to your liking. I personally love the balance of bitter, sweet, and spicy that this ratio makes the jalapeños, and the pickled red onions (P.R.O.s) are a staple at my current restaurant and at Bouchon when I was there. I may make a batch of slightly less sweet peppers the next time.

To prepare: Bring all ingredients to a boil. For very thin/small vegetables like julienned onion or thin sliced pepper, simply pour hot liquid over the vegetables. Weigh down with a plate or cover with a cloth to ensure the liquid covers all of the vegetables. Let cool at room temperature. Refrigerate.
For larger, whole, or more fibrous vegetables, such as ginger, beets, carrots, or pearl onions, you will want to blanch them first.

And that’s where big pot blanching comes in.  Check the link below for tips on that:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPGke_I7hpk

Feel free to ask me any questions about pickled veg.

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